February 14, 2008

The Flower Drying Game - Part 1 Air, Sand, and Sources

Filed under: Garden Plants — pongdet @ 7:18 am

Most average gardeners quietly and sadly resign themselves to a long winter empty of the lovely flowers that, only a few weeks before, had graced their lives with color and fragrance. Yes, it’s sad to leave the outdoor garden behind.

Houseplants relieve some of the sadness, but somehow it’s just not the same. I mean, African violets and Christmas Cactus are nice, but I long for my lupines and roses, delphiniums and pansies and all the other wonderfully cheerful little flower-faces that once looked back from the border. Surely there must be a way to bring my favorites in for the winter! The real trick, as you’ll soon see, is to plan ahead.

Enter my very best friend of over 45 years, Linda. . .to my rescue (why am I not surprised?!). “Not to fear,” says she. “I’ll bring in some of summer’s delights and dry them so they can be our company this winter!”
“What a marvelous idea!” says I. “But doesn’t it take some special trick or magic? Don’t we have to take a class or something?” “Well, no” says she. “Just you watch. You’ll see!”

So, for the price of a trifling few moments of summer effort (which this remarkable person calls fun), our home is frequently host to a quantity of most attractive little dry flower arrangements in baskets and vases, adding joy to joy.

You see, there really wasn’t any magic involved. All it took was a desire, some good old New England resolve, a few wire coat hangers and some twist ‘n ties like the ones that come with most household trash bags. Combine those factors and inexpensive materials with a space in your attic or closetand selections from the list of “best-bets-to-begin-with” that I’ll include belowand you have arrived at the prestigious stage of “expert.”

What’s that you say? “Fine time to tell us about this now that the whole world is covered with snow!” “Nay,” say I! This is the perfect time. Winter is for planning. If I’d have told you about this in May or June, you’d have been so busy it would never have managed to be squeezed in. Isn’t this the time for resolutions? So make one that says: “This is the last winter I’ll spend with no summertime flowers in the house!”

The instructions are pure simplicity. On a dry, sunny day, cut your fresh flowers, leaving fairly long stems. Gather them into small bunches of not more than 6 or 7 stems and wrap the ends tightly with a twist ‘n tie. Attach several of these small bunches to a wire clothes hanger so they dangle down, and suspend it in an attic or closet to dry. The drying process takes from ten days to three or four weeks. Most will retain their color, but a few will turn a pale tan. Not to worry, even softer, faded-out colors fit into dried flower arrangements nicely.

The rest is up to you and your arranging imagination and creativity. Pictures in a book are very helpful. Remember that dried flowers are fragile and some delicate parts are bound to shatter away if handled roughly.

Dried arrangements add so much to a home! They brighten a room and certainly brighten spirits. The icing on a cake: they make thoughtful and much appreciated gifts-especially to shut-ins.

That’s it for air-drying. Here’s the list of “best bets” I promised you:
Artemisia; Astilbe; Baby’s Breath; Beebalm; Cattails; Celosia; Chive seed heads; Coneflower seed heads; Globe Amaranth; Globe Thistle; Goldenrod; Gomphrena; Heather; Helichrysom; Hydrangea (especially “Pee-Gee”); Lavender; Lunaria (seed structures, not the flowers); Ornamental Grasses; Pearly Everlastings; Pussywillows; Salvia; Sea Lavender; Statice; Veronica; Yarrow.

The list could go on but I think you get the picture. Just keep your eyes open and don’t be bashful.
Now let’s tackle a trickier process: drying some of the more delicate and intricate blossoms in sand. Large flowers like roses, carnations, daisies, delphiniums and many others not only lose their shape, but most fade to brown if simply hung out to dry.

Sand Drying. By far the least complicated method is air-drying, but that limits us to a relatively short list of possibilities. Carefully surrounding more delicate and intricate flowers with sand (or silica gel) extends the list considerably and opens the door to much more elaborate and lovely floral displays that can last for months.

First, a word or two of caution. Most sand-dried flowers are extremely fragile, shattering at the slightest misadventure. A playful kitten or curious child will quickly turn a beautiful flower into a handful of fragments resembling breakfast flakes. The entire process briefly described below must be undertaken slowly, very deliberately and with the lightest touch. The final requirement is patience. A flower removed from its sandy bed too soon - before it is completely desiccated - will quickly shrivel to ruin…so don’t be too anxious.

Sand. Probably the most difficult first step is finding just the right sand. If you’re willing to spend a little extra, most larger craft stores either have in stock or can order sand best suited to the purpose, usually in five-pound tins. You’ll need about fifteen or twenty pounds to get started. Since sand specifically manufactured for the purpose is completely reusable, it should last a while, especially if it’s kept reasonably clean. Silica gel may be too tricky (and too expensive) for the beginner, experimenter or for anyone on a limited budget. It dries flowers very quickly but must be timed almost to the exact, “just right” moment.

Silica sand (or “glass sand”), on the other hand, is perfect, much more pleasant to handle and is considerably less expensive. It is almost pure white and looks like fine granulated sugar. Beach sand, masonry or “sharp” builder’s sand and road sand is irregular and dirty, and may leave an unpleasant and difficult-to-remove residue on your dried specimens. Take the time to find just the right kind.

Containers. Sturdy shoe boxes are just about perfect for drying flowers. Round cardboard oatmeal containers work well, too, but can be a little awkward. Both have close-fitting lids and are stable, not being easily upset. Plastic bags and glass jars are not suitable; neither are grocery or lunch bags.
Where? Just the other day someone said to me “Sure, dry all kinds of flowers! But where can I get flowers this time of year?” A reasonable question, and one that’s easy to answer. Here’s where you’ll find plenty of material

    * From a thoughtful spouse or friend who sends or brings you a nice bouquet or potted flowering plant from a local florist or supermarket.
    * Weddings are happening all around us. In my earlier days as a wedding photographer I attended hundreds of weddings and many had attractive little fresh arrangements at each reception table.
    * There are almost as many funerals as there are weddings (hmmmm). While I don’t recommend you go to a funeral just for the flowers, very often those large arrangements, loaded with a wide variety of suitable blossoms and greenery, end up in the rubbish after the service. Most funeral homes would be happy to see them “recycled.”
    * The local florist or flower shop. One or two single daisies or mums shouldn’t cost too much. They might even let you have a few of their “rejects.” Tiny flaws which make a flower unsuitable for a fresh arrangement are perfectly acceptable for drying. Ask.
    * And of course there’s your own garden-next year.

Okbefore going to Part 2, run down some suitable sand and gather up a few mush or shoe boxes. Also, gather together a paper cup or two, and a small, soft artist’s paintbrush. Finally, if you’re the type who salvages and recycles such things, a block of dried-out “Oasis”spongy, green blocks which florists use in arrangementswill make a handy place to temporarily hold the finished, dried specimens.

Part 2 in this 3-part series will show you how to use your sand for drying, and will introduce the secret that florists have guarded for decades to retain that “live” look in dry-arrangement foliage accents. Later, in Part 3, we’ll get the plans and instructions for an affordabledo-it-yourselfflower press.

View the list of Fred’s other articles at: http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Fred_Davis

Fred Davis is a Master Gardener, Master Composter, lecturer, and long-time nurseryman. He and his wife, Linda, own and operate a popular perennial nursery in Palermo, Maine, and maintain a no-frills gardening information website at: http://www.HillGardens.com/ where you’ll find answers to your gardening questions.

Ornamental Grasses Six Of The Very Best

Filed under: Garden Plants — pongdet @ 1:26 am

Ornamental grasses for dry gravel and prairie style plantings. My six very best recomendations.

If you have ever thought about a drought resistant low maintenances garden with tough disease free easy to grow plants but still want a garden that’s attractive and with long season charm then you must have considered ornamental grasses.

Many grasses are undeniably elegant and graceful adding structure and form to a garden. In the breeze they bring movement and sound. Many have beautiful flowers and later seed heads that last right through the winter season.

I am pleased to highly recommend the following six ornamental grasses as some of the most attractive and interesting specimens available today. You can view images of these grasses at both the Pot and Grass Company website where you will find a wealth of information on growing and planting ornamental grasses and bamboos and garden design ideas or at www.grassgardens.co.uk in the gallery.

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

Imperata cylindrica’Red Baron’

“The Japanese Blood Grass”. This Japanese grass is famous for producing the only genuinely red grass in cultivation. Unique and breathtakingly beautiful. The pale green leaves emerge in late spring gradually turning red in the late season sun when they are blood red like claret. Bolt upright. H 45 cm. W 90 cm.

Elymus Magellanicum a.k.a (Agropyron.M)

“Blue Magellan Wheatgrass” From the Magellan straights of South Americas Cape Horn (named after the navigator Magellan and from whom this grass gets its name) This tufted clump former has the most intense blue foliage of all the grasses. Its colour is so strong other traditional bluish grasses pale into insignificants. A cool season grower it needs sharply drained soil especially in wet winter areas such as the SW and welcomes some light shade to relieve the summer sulks. Drought tolerant and loves the seaside. It makes a superb container specimen. Zone 6 Hardy.

Miscanthus sinensis ‘Zebrinus’”Eulalia Grass”

‘Zebrinus’. Horizontally stripped. The original Zebra Grass. Loose arching clumps of fresh leaves. Very attractive. H 240 cm.-W 120 cm. Large, bold, hardy, drought tolerant, easy to grow. greatly appreciated and loved by the prairie style garden disciples. They are perennials with a long flowering season, outstanding autumn colours and winter interest. They are unfussy about soil types, free draining to heavy but not waterlogged.

Pennisetum orientale”The Fountain or Foxtail Grass”

‘Orientale’. A slightly smaller cultivar. Produces long thin mauve-pink flower heads all summer and autumn flowers appear from mid summer on tall stems topped by a bottlebrush or foxtail of pink hairs. Sun or light shade and sheltered. Most soils except waterlogged. Is drought resistant when established.

Stipa arundinacae a.k.a Anemanthele lessoniana”The New Zealander”

This comes from guess where? The needle type leaves emerge chocolate brown and aging to olive green with coppery overtones. Autumn flowers. Stipa’s have tremendously presence in the garden. Clumps of attractive narrow leaves abundant flowers for long periods. They do not cope with shade. Full sun. they are exposure and drought tolerant. Free draining to dry soil, impoverished with sand is good. Has low nutrient needs.

Nassella Tenuissima a.k.a (STIPA Tenuissima) Mexican Feather Grass.

Probably better known by its old classification Stipa Tenuissima this has proved I think to be our most popular grass to date and it deserves to be. A native of Mexico Texas and Argentina it is at home on dry rocky slopes, open woodlands and dry open spaces. It is one of the finest ornamental grasses. Fountains of fine hair like leaves and threadlike stems terminating in a silvery inflorescence. A cool season grower supposedly, but whose ever heard of a cool blooded Mexican.

We hope you enjoy your grasses and your gardens and find peace and happiness within.

Peter Corbett. Is a collector of rare grasses and ornamental bamboos and written several articles on the subject. Peter advices and assists his wife Heather who runs the Pot and Grass Company Nursery and mail order company specialising in bamboos and grasses. Peter has a keen interest in Chinese metaphysics and has lived and travelled extensively through SE Asia and mainland China. Peter has written a book on Feng Shui “Qi Concepts for energy engineering” which is available for purchase from the Pot and Grass company online store or available as a free down load to customers.

February 10, 2008

Everyone Needs A Spaghetti Garden

Filed under: Garden Plants — pongdet @ 10:28 am

One of the delightful pleasures of life are herbs. Besides adding beauty to your garden they make foods taste better and provide a pleasant scent to the air we breathe. In George Washington days everyone had a herb garden that they used for culinary, teas and medicinal purposes. That practice is slowly coming back.

A spaghetti garden is one of the most popular kitchen gardens. Anyone that has a sunny patch of ground or a window-box can grow these herbs of parsley, garlic, basil, bay laurel and oregano. A small garden space can easily yield all the herbs that you’ll need for delicious Italian meals. They are even easy to grow in a sunny window for your year-round use.

Let us take a closer look at the spaghetti garden herbs:

* Oregano is a perennial ground cover plant. Oregano is a prolific grower that can send out shoots that grow to six feet in a single season. If pruned and bunched, oregano can grow into a small border plant. It would rather have light, thin soil and lots of sun, so keep it on the south side of your garden. When the plants reach 4-5 inches harvesting can start. Pinch off the top 1/3 of the plant, just above a leaf intersection. The young leaves are actually stronger dried than fresh and are the most flavorful part of the plant. To dry, lay the leaves on newspaper or a drying screen in the sun until the leaves crumble easily. It will retain its flavor for months.

*Bay leaves add a favorable hint of spice to stews, soups and spaghetti sauce. The bay laurel is a small tree that grows about a foot per year, this makes it suitable for growing in a container. If you live in a mild climate zone leave the container outside, but if temperatures go below 25 degrees keep the tree in a pot and bring it indoors during the winter.

*Basil seeds itself so easily that you may never have to buy another plant after the first year. There are many different kinds of basil, but all grow rapidly and require frequent pinching back to prevent them from growing tall and leggy. When the plants have reached about 6-8 inches tall, you can begin harvesting. Pinch off the top 1/3 of the plant, just above a leaf intersection. Pinch off any flower buds before they go to seed. Six to eight plants will provide enough basil for the entire neighborhood.

*Garlic is probably the easiest plant to grow. Break apart a clove of garlic, and plant the cloves about four inches apart, two to four inches deep in a light soil. Lightly water and watch them grow. You may harvest when tips of the leaves turn brown but do not let them flower. Just dig up the bulbs, and use them. To keep a fresh supply take one or two cloves from each bulb and replant them.

*Parsley is probably the most used herb in the world. You will find both flat (Italian) and curly types. They complement the flavor of everything from sauces to hearty stews. It is used as a garnish on plates, or cut up and added to soups, dressings and salads. Parsley adds vitamins and color, and quietly brings out the flavor of other ingredients in the dish. Parsley is a biennial, flowering in its second season. It prefers a little shade on a hot sunny day, and should be kept watered to avoid wilting and drying. Pinch back older stems to the base, allowing new leaves and branches to grow.

Grow your own tomatoes and you are well on your way to becoming a Italian chef.

James makes it easy for you to understand herbs needed and knowing where to put them. If you need to know more about organic gardening or herbs visit: basic Info for Organic Gardening

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