December 28, 2007

How to Plant Tulips

Filed under: Garden Plants — pongdet @ 5:31 am

Quality Dutch tulip bulbs are easy to come by and fairly inexpensive to purchase. You can get them through a mail order catalogue or a reputable green house. It is becoming increasingly popular to buy flower bulbs from online nurseries. The downfall to buying bulbs online is that you cannot inspect the bulbs prior to purchase. The highest quality of bulbs, especially tulips, comes from Holland.

Tulip bulbs are best when purchased early in the planting season. Only buy firm, light colored bulbs where the skin peels off easily. This will insure that the bulbs are disease free. Buy by species, not by color. If the bin is simply labeled “yellow bulbs”, you do not know what exactly you are getting. If you are not sure when the best time to plant is, ask the greenhouse keeper about the conditions of your zone.

Spring bulbs such as tulips, need to be planted when it is cool enough to keep them from sprouting, but still warm enough for the roots to establish themselves before winter sets in. Plant tulips six inches deep and cover. If you have problems with moles and other little creatures digging up your tulips, you may plant them as deep as eight inches. If your bulbs are still being whisked away in the dead of night, there are bulbs planting cases you can get at the greenhouse. A little known fact about planting tulips, after the initial watering in after planting, do not water your tulips again until their leaves appear.

For more information, visit these sites:

http://www.TulipsInfo.com

http://www.BulbsInfo.com

This Fall, Give Your Trees Some TLC

Filed under: Garden Plants — pongdet @ 3:16 am

They add character to neighborhoods, beauty to rolling hills and depth to flat prairies. Whether they have guarded your home for a few years or even for several decades, your trees need some extra attention this autumn. A few simple treatments make a big difference when spring emerges and your trees are already strong, beautiful and healthy.

Inspection Time

Before winter sets in, walk your property and perform a visual inspection of all of your trees, both young and old. The purpose of your inspection is to identify potential diseases, or growth patterns that may lead to damage as wind, snow and ice arrive in the area.

Examine the trunk and branches of each tree. Notice their growth patterns, and how each branch is attached to the main trunk. One of the biggest offenders which leads to weak trees is a co-dominant stem. Co-dominant stems are common in several varieties of trees including Bradford Pears and some Birch species. While they pose a big danger, they’re relatively easy to spot with the naked eye. Look at the main trunk of the tree, and search for any branches that look like they’re competing with the main trunk. Visually, a co-dominant stem will appear as a fork-like growth off the main trunk. It will be larger than the tree’s actual branches, and typically grow vertically alongside the trunk.

Co-dominant stems pose a great danger to the tree itself, and to your property. Because this stem is competing with the trunk, the tree is weakened, making it susceptible to split under pressure of wind, snow and ice, and take the tree tumbling down with it. Co-dominant stems should be removed immediately to ensure strength, stability and future growth. For a young tree, you may use a pruning tool or small saw to remove the stem at its base, outside the branch collar. More mature, larger co-dominant stems may require a heavy saw, or the assistance of a professional since removing branches from large trees can be a dangerous task. Keep in mind that you can kill a tree if proper pruning is not performed. Before making any cuts, check the ANSI standards for tree trimming which can be found online at www.ansi.org.

Examine young trees for damage from lawn mowers and other gardening tools that may have occurred throughout the season. Small nicks attract disease and insects, which inhibit proper growth and strength. PVC pipe or fiberglass tree wraps placed around the base of young trees can help you avoid damage. Also, be sure to remove any weeds that grow within a young tree’s dripline, as they are fierce competitors for water and nutrients.

Older trees should be closely monitored. While many appear strong and stately, their sheer weight and size can create a huge liability that may not be covered by insurance if they fall on your property - or your neighbor’s. Look for areas in the tree that seem to have heavy growth and foliage. Examine your older trees for dead bark, cankers or lesions on the trunk or branches, or wilted, mis-shapen or discolored leaves. If any of these is present, your tree may need special care. Several online resources, including the Tree Care Industry of America (www.tcia.org) and the International Society of Arborculture (www.isa-arbor.com) websites include tips and frequently asked questions about caring for your trees.

Pruning and Mulching: Important for Healthy Trees

The list of tree damage and disease is a long one, but don’t worry: many of your trees’ ailments can be alleviated by the simple tasks of pruning and mulching.

One important step in preparing your trees for winter is deadwooding, which refers to the removal of dead wood. It is often easiest to identify deadwood during autumn since the entire tree’s architecture is clear. Deadwooding maintains a tree’s structural integrity, reduces risk of insect infestation, and lessens its chance of damage when wind, snow and ice bear down on dead sections of the tree.

Another essential task is thinning, which refers to the removal of excess foliage and growth from trees’ interiors. Like deadwooding, thinning reduces weight on branches, which can minimize winter storm damage. Thinning also promotes wind circulation within the trees’ canopies to reduce fungal growth.

Aside from pruning, autumn mulching is crucial because it helps prepare trees for the upcoming winter months. Mulch is not only attractive, but it also helps trees absorb nutrients, moderates soil temperature during the frigid winter months, and increases water retention. Don’t skip fall mulch! It’s just as important to mulch now and freshen it up in the spring.

There are many types of mulch on the market, but not all of them are created equal. A recent study performed by the Ohio State University Agricultural Research and Development Center concluded that the best mulch for your trees is premium blended organic mulch because it produces more microbial nitrogen than non-composted mulch, making the nitrogen more available to the plant. In fact, absorption of nutrients in organic mulch is 20 to 25 percent higher than typical bagged mulch.

Before applying mulch to trees and shrubs, remove all weeds and grass from the areas to be covered. Rake two to four inches of mulch into a flattened doughnut shape over these areas, keeping the mulch at least six inches away from tree trunks. Form a “moat” around the base of the tree or plant to help catch water, and leave a small gap between the mulch and the edge of the surrounding lawn.

So during the next few weeks, look around your yard and examine your trees for signs of disease and damage. Even if your trees seem healthy and strong, they may still need pruning and mulching before winter. If you see something that seems unusual, or is a bit more than you can handle, call your local licensed arborist for diagnosis and treatment. A little extra attention will prepare your trees not only for ice storms, but will also ensure their glorious beauty when winter finally thaws.

Jeff Hansen is president of Hansen’s Tree Service, a full-service tree and lawn care company that performs diagnosis, treatment, pruning, tree removal, stump removal and lawn care. Hansen’s is fully accredited by TCIA and ISA, and serves residences and companies throughout the entire St. Louis metro area. With nine fully certified arborists on staff, Hansen’s educates the public on the values of proper tree and lawn care, its maintenance and the importance of environmental responsibility. For more information visit http://www.hansenstree.com.

December 24, 2007

How Do Different Types of Fertilizers Affect Your Lawn Grasses

Filed under: Garden Plants — pongdet @ 10:01 am

There are four major types of lawn fertilizers available in the market today. They are granular, liquid, synthetic and organic. Let’s take a quick look at each of them.

The most popular type of lawn fertilizer is the granular type as it is easy to use and last longer. There are two forms: quick release and slow release. A slow release form will provide fertilization over two to six months. The advantage is that there is no need to apply fertilizers for the next few months. The downside is that the result will take a longer time to show. On the other hand, the quick release form will show result in a shorter period of time but it is necessary to apply them on a more frequent basis. Quick release form tends to work better in cold weather and thus is the preferred choice during winter seasons.

Liquid fertilizers usually come in concentrated form and are applied by attaching a hose and nozzle to a spray bottle. This method of fertilizing the lawn is easy and required less effort. Being in liquid form also means that the nutrients are absorbed by the grass roots almost immediately. In addition to fertilizers, herbicides can also be added during this treatment. You can see the result in a very short time using this method. The downside to this method is that frequent application is necessary due to quick absorption of the nutrients.

Synthetic fertilizers are not natural fertilizers as they are chemically engineered. This type of fertilizers offers immediate release of nutrients that penetrate the soil very quickly. The application of this type of fertilizers needs to be repeated often as the result doesn’t last long. They can also damage the lawn if not applied in the correct manner.

For totally natural fertilizers, try organic fertilizers. They are made from once living organisms and their by-products. These types of fertilizers are applied to the lawn by spreaders, rakes or even hands. Due to its organic nature, the nutrients are released slowly. The nitrogen level in this type of soil also tends to be higher.

There are many factors to consider when choosing the type of fertilizers. They include the condition of your lawn, the amount of effort you are willing to put in, the climate, cost as well as your personal preference. No matter which type of fertilizers, you choose you can be sure that your lawn will be strong and green as you consistently fertilize it.

Jack Greenwood is the webmaster of GreenLawnCareTips.com
where he provides more information on lawn care and fertilizing tips.
Sign up for a free 7-part lawn care mini course at this site today!

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